Aldridge Grammar School Baltic Cruise, June 8th 1974

I was extremely privileged to have been able to take part in the AGS school cruise around the Baltic at the age of 15 on the SS Nevasa. My memories of the cruise are very patchy as it was so long ago but I do remember having a lot of fun. I must confess to not have been particularly interested in the lessons that we had to attend which was probably to my disadvantage as there was an opportunity to learn about the fascinating places we visited. I think I was more preoccupied with larking about with my good mate Waggy (Paul Wagstaff). The cruise consisted mainly of pupils from Staffordshire schools (including Brewood Grammar, Shelfield and Streetly in addition to AGS), although there were a few southern interlopers from Kent, whose accents stood out strongly from our Midlands twang.

The ship sailed from Tilbury and there were four destinations. I am pretty sure we navigated the Keil Canal and the first stop was Travemunde, port of the historic Hanseatic city of Lubeck, Germany (then of course, West Germany), with its marvellous architecture and churches.

The second destination was Leningrad (formerly and now St. Petersburg), Russia. This really was a fantastic opportunity to visit cold-war era Soviet Union. At that time I was in the Air Cadets and fascinated by anything military, so to be able to see Soviet military installations and hardware at the height of the cold-war was amazing for a naive 15 year old like me! The whole experience was quite surreal. We were escorted by young communist party ‘guides’ wherever we went although we were under no illusion that their guiding was a secondary activity to keeping an eye on our western imperialist behaviour. Despite the talk of being sent to the salt mines in Siberia for any transgressions we treated it with a typical British disdain for all things foreign and pushed things as far as we dared with our hosts. They were actually remarkably accepting and tolerated our childish cheek. I remember one discussion in the back of a bus where our minder was asking if the Beatles were still number one and the responses were sarcastic to the point of being offensive. Makes me feel quite ashamed now I think back. That was the same girl I sold a pair of my Levi jeans to as they were very hard to come by in Soviet Russia!

Copenhagen, Denmark was the next stop where my memories seem to be mainly about the famous mermaid statue and an evening at the vibrant Tivoli Gardens. I remember thinking the mermaid statue was a lot smaller than I thought it would be. The final stop was Visby, Gottland, Sweden which I vividly recall being very hot with a marvelously bright sun beating down on the grey stone walls and red roofs of the medieval architecture. It was a magical place which could have come directly from the pages of a Viking saga.

The SS Nevasa had an interesting history. She was commissioned by the British India Steam Navigation Company as a troopship and built on the Clyde. She was launched in 1955 and served in this capacity until 1962, including transporting troops to the Suez Crisis in 1956. In 1965 she was refitted as an educational cruise ship along with a sister ship the SS Uganda and operated in this role until December 1974. She was scrapped in Taiwan in 1975. I recall the immaculately attired British officers of the ship sauntering about in a relaxed manner whereas the hundreds of disheveled and impecunious foreign crew scurried about like ants. They did look after us very well though and took no end of cheek and nonsense from us in good spirit.

SS Nevasa
Lapel badge from SS Nevasa

The following photographs were ironically taken on my Russian made Zenith E 35mm SLR camera. My photographic skills with that completely manual film camera were clearly not the best and the resultant slides were stored away for years and transported around the world several times as part of our travels. Consequently they have not survived particularly well and they have required some restoration. But they still offer a fascinating insight into the trip. I wish I had kept my diary of the trip because I have no idea where some of the images were taken. Because they were originally slides I would have to take them apart one by one, destroying the mounts in the process to be able to use the film frame number as a guide to sequence, which I am reluctant to do. I also wish I had taken more photographs of the people involved rather than them predominantly being of the places and things we saw. That is possibly a sign of the times. These days it is easy to look up the Peterhof Palace on the internet and be presented with endless high-quality images, but back in 1974 it was very different so we took photos to remind us of where we had been rather than today’s preoccupation for ‘the selfie’.

Life-boat davit with non-paying passenger hitching a ride
This crude montage is the Hessen, a Hamburg class destroyer of the Bundesmarine (West German Navy). This was one of several interesting military experiences I had!
This is the Obraztsovyy, a Kashin-class missile destroyer of the Voyenno-morskoy flot SSSR (Soviet USSR fleet). There is a story which goes with this photograph. A second ship of the Soviet navy was steaming in convoy with this ship and as I was taking photos of them both with my 300mm telephoto lens an officer of the Nevasa saw me from the bridge and came down to talk to me. He told me that the other ship was a Krivak-class missile destroyer (possibly the Razumnyy) and that it was on its maiden voyage from its home port and that it had never been seen or photographed before. He told me that it was important that I should send my photographs of it to the Ministry of Defence when I got back to the UK, which I did. In return I received a roll of film and a thank-you note, which I wish I had kept. It made me feel quite proud and important that I had served my country in this small way in the cold-war. The other thing of interest I think is that the ships officers knew so much about the movements of the Soviet Navy. It is clear to me that the crews of British merchant ships operating in the Baltic were briefed so as to be able to provide intelligence to the MoD.

Travemunde-Lubeck, West Germany

Even as a 13 year-old I had an interest in taking photographs of what some might consider mundane and unusual! I think this may be the Keil Canal.
Lubecker Rathaus (Town Hall)
Lubecker Rathaus (Town Hall)
St. Mary’s Church
Danse Macabre stained glass window St. Mary’s church
St. Mary’s Church
Another church tower in Lubeck. I am not sure which church this is.
Tradesmens guild building in Lubeck
Building in Lubeck
Travemunde, a seaside resort close to Lubeck.
The sail-training ship ‘Passat’ at Travemunde.
Couldn’t resist this shot…. VW Passat with sail-training ship Passat in the background… clever eh?

Leningrad, Soviet Union

I remember I was quite excited to see this. Some kind of military installation in Russia!
Another military installation. This appears to be a small Soviet naval dockyard.
(I thought I would get the military pictures out of the way early…)
Docks at Leningrad
I remember how Leningrad was dismal and a mass of criss-crossed overhead wires. Not sure who the grinning character centre-front is.
Peterhof Palace
Oranzhereiny Fountain depicting a triton grappling with the jaws of sea monster.
I must have been impressed with that fountain because I took two shots of it. In the wake of Soviet-era austerity this and many other of the fountains at Peterhof Park have since been gilded. Note AGS people in the background.
Chess Hill or Dragon Hill Cascade
Statue of Peter the Great, Leningrad (now St. Petersburg).

Visby, Gottland, Sweden

Sailing boat possibly off the coast of Gottland.
Visby city wall
Tower in the city wall of Visby
The Gunpowder Tower
The ruined St. Nicolai Church. The church was built between 1215 to 1220 and ruined during an attack by the forces of the German town of Lubeck, which ironically was another of our destinations on this cruise.
Kelly Bowers playing to the camera!
I have spent a large amount of time trying to find out where this imposing avenue and cross is but without success. I have placed it in the Visby section because I think the circumstantial evidence seems to suggest it is in Gottland somewhere although I have been unable to prove this. My assumption is based upon two factors; The sandstone-red roofs of the buildings and the fact that the cars in the church car-park are conspicuously parked in the shade due to the heat. I still hope to arrive at a definitive conclusion.

Copenhagen, Denmark

The famous mermaid statue. Some years after this a vandal beheaded it but fortunately the head was found and was able to be re-attached.
A Danish swan…
A Danish duck….
The Queen Elizabeth the Second was berthed at Copenhagen (I think) at the time we docked. At the time it was the premier luxury liner in the world.
QEII. The ship is now a permanently moored floating luxury hotel in Dubai.
The Copenhagen to Malmo hydrofoil ferry. Now the Oresundsbron Bridge provides an easier but less exciting link and also an integral part in several Scandi-Noir drama programmes.
Trekroner Battery Island off Copenghagen.
My family were bakers so I had to take this photo!
A visit to the Danish Resistance museum was a highlight for me! This armoured car was made by men from the Danish railway workshops towards the end of the war and used in 1945 against elements of Danish Nazi units prior to liberation.
I am not 100% sure where this photo was taken, but my guess is Copenhagen. Centre is Paul ‘Waggy’ Wagstaff. Not sure who the other lads are.
Again, not exactly sure where this was taken but the two anonymous chaps from the previous photo are in this one too, although one of them is sporting different attire. The fellow in the brown crombie jacket is my old friend Nigel Rayment. Nigel had left AGS by this time and was with the Brewood Grammar School party.
Bull chariot statue, St. Albans church, Langelinie Park
I am not exactly sure where this park is but by deduction I am pretty sure it is in Copehagen somewhere.

That’s about it for now. Please let me know if there are additions, corrections, errors etc.

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